Feb. 2010 - Our overnight sail from Puntarenas, C. R. to Puerto Armuelles, Panama was bliss. It took 36 hours and we were eating spaghetti in the cockpit when a panga pulled alongside and asked for the captain. The port captain, aduana, and a few others were aboard and wanted to check us in to Panama. They took our passports and told Steve to meet them in the officina at 8 the next morning. So, we all had a good night's rest and Gary took Steve to the old banana pier to walk to town in the morning.
Well, it cost about $300 all told, but we got some fuel and food (pineapples, watermelon, mango, bananas) and after a dip in the turquoise water, left for Isla Parida. There was a small resort there and a huge yacht anchored in the well protected bay.
The next day, we had a good sail to Isla Seca, where a "resort" of high-tech tents was situated among the tropical jungle. We swam a little, but didn't walk the white sand beach.
The next day, we sailed to Coiba, the largest island in MesoAmerica. We anchored off an idyllic island straight out of Gilligan's Island. Ahhhh! Watch the current when you dive in. The park "rangers" came over in the morning and took the captain to their office to pay the $120 park fee. Ouch! But we dinghied to the island, snorkeled, and came back to the boat in the rain. It was a long shower and washed the salt off the boat -- and us. Can you feel the humidity?
Continuing toward Panama City, the Cap'n said we'd sail overnight to the harbor just before Punta Mala, the bad place. But the wind came up, and the sun set, and the waves built and we decided to head for Bahia Naranja. Of course it was unlit and the wind was 18-20k and we were rocking and rolling. Ugh. But we found the right spot, got the sails down, and anchored in a snug harbor for the night.
Next stop, Benao, a surfing hotspot, not that it mattered to us. But what a nice surprise to find $6 scrambled eggs and bacon ashore at a nice hotel, a hard sand beach with a surfers hangout at the other end with $1 beers. Another Hallberg-Rassy, "Ever After," showed up just before we left at 4:00. They were from Finland and would soon be heading to the South Pacific.
We motored around Punta Mala (chili for dinner) with about 8-10k wind and calm seas, thank the gods. Everything felt damp even though the moon was in and out of the clouds showing us big freighters far off in the shipping channels heading to and from the canal.
We landed in the Las Perlas islands and eventually made our way to Contadora, the closest in the archipelago to Panama City. More current to deter swimming, but fancy houses on the beach. Steve and I went ashore and walked about a mile and that's all there was to the island: an airstrip, Restaurant Romantico, fancy hotels, a mini super (with more $1 Balboa beer), and a little swimsuit shop.
Tsunami
Lest I forget, we awoke one morning (the morning after the earthquake in Chile which we didn't know about) and saw a lot of activity with one of the boats. Then, the woman onboard starting blowing a horn and then a whistle. We turned on the VHF and heard another boat ask if there were any concerns about a tsunami in our area from the earthquake in Chile. Soon every boat was taking up anchor and heading out, us included. But there was no problem. We milled around a few hours until we got word that any tidal activity would be minor and over by 9 o'clock our time.
Sail to Panama City
Feb. 28 - we left the anchorage at 9:20 and had an awesome sail to Panama City. 20k wind, 3-4 seas to starboard, one reef in the main; we went 8 knots and got to Panama City in 5 hours with no engine and lots of cool breeze. Sitting on the high side was pretty comfortable. Thus the champagne. We are in the La Playita Anchorage awaiting paperwork and a crew change.
08`54.347N
79`31.547W
Aloha.
